Vietnam Today

 

 

Vietnam Today

By Ferida Wolff

It was in the sixties. I was recently married and worried that my new husband would be drafted and sent to Vietnam. I spent time protesting, marching, and writing letters. The pictures of our eventual withdrawal, particularly the photos of the frantic rooftop evacuation in Saigon, were seared into my mind. I ended up working with organizations helping the people who managed to escape by boat to establish themselves in a new life here. It was a traumatic time for both our peoples.

Now, half a century later, my husband and I decided to visit the country we had so long ago feared. When I told our friends that we were going to Vietnam I could see the question in their eyes. Why, of all places, did we want to go there? They had painful memories, too. And to be honest, I was concerned about how Americans would be viewed all these years later.

What I found was a friendly welcome. While there are museums and monuments that refer to our war involvement, for the most part Vietnam is a country that is putting aside the past for a vibrant future. It is a communist country but one that is enjoying peace, a change from an often war-torn history.

I had imagined a land of flat fields and much of it is that, a countryside where rice fields abound. Rice is a staple in Vietnam, with several crops a year harvested. There are other parts, though; a UNESCO World Heritage site at Halong Bay where islands shift in and out of view in the morning mists and hide treasures like magnificent caves, and the winding road through the dense green hills in the center. There are also fishing villages and fish farms and islands in the Mekong Delta where coconut and banana trees are plentiful. How lovely to swim in the coral coves off the South China Sea.

But this is not a languid country; Vietnam is on the move – literally. It isn’t easy for a westerner to figure out the traffic rules (are there any?). There aren’t too many cars on the road yet – too expensive – but motorbikes abound and they are all traveling at breakneck speed wherever there is room. Six vehicles in the space of two lanes? Sure, why not if they fit? Can’t wait to get through? Move into the opposing lane. Stuck in a traffic jam? Drive on the sidewalk!

You literally have to step into the line of onrushing vehicles to cross the street. We were advised to walk slowly and steadily, be aware of the traffic coming at you but don’t make eye contact. We found the best way to get across was to wait for a native to go first and we would follow close behind. Once, while we hesitated at a curb in Saigon, a woman took pity on us. She indicated that we were to follow her and then, in a moment of compassion, reached behind her to take my hand and lead me across. I thanked her as she waved goodbye and continued on her way. But there was to be no slacking off in our traffic awareness; we still had the sidewalks to contend with.

Markets are bountiful offering food, souvenirs, hardware, clothing, incense, you name it. Night markets are just as active and cooler. Stores beckon everywhere, often with blaring music (no noise-prevention laws, I guess) to entice buyers in. President Bill Clinton lifted the trade embargo with Vietnam in 1997 and the US has been both exporting to and importing from the Vietnamese since then. There are lots of joint-venture enterprises and the country is booming with construction sites.

We had the opportunity to chat with students at the University of Dalat. They wanted to practice their English (a language now required in their high school studies) and to learn about life in America. We were able to ask questions about their lives, to hear about their dreams and their plans for the future; the younger generation in Vietnam has the same enthusiasm as our young people at home.

It was a privilege to experience the terrain and its citizens, to share in the local foods and customs, and to remember about the commonality of all people in our desire to live joyful, peaceful, successful lives. A larger global understanding is needed in a world where a minor disagreement can lead to a major confrontation.  A good way to get that connection is person-to-person, one member of our human family sharing with another. I know that family members don’t always agree but the bond is still there. And, I hope, the caring that keeps us respectful of each other. Vietnam is a great place to embrace our commonality.

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