Rowing to independence in Chile

After a 48-hour journey using all common modes of transportation: bus, plane, boat; I arrived to the middle of nowhere or the centre of the universe depending how you look at it. Futaleufú is a town of 2,297 inhabitants, nestled in the Chilean Andes and just eight kilometres from the Argentinian border.

Everything seemed miraculous; gigantic glaciers, towering misty mountains, aquamarine rivers. Thinking to myself: “what luck to live in this little paradise,” I felt empowered to explore as far as my legs would take me, to know the secrets of Futaleufú. 

A week went by settling into my new life as an English teacher; I was content and taking things day by day. Another week went by and I started feeling different. At first, I couldn’t put my finger on the problem, then it hit me: I hadn’t made any friends. There was no one I could turn to, not even someone I could invite over for “onces” or tea time. Fitting into a new environment is challenging especially in a small town, add to that language and cultural barriers. The questions began: “Am I not enough?” “Did I say something wrong?” “Do I seem boring?” 

Feeling down on myself, I looked out the window and watched the mist slowly pass over the mountains. Remembering that Futaleufú is a very special place and I was on an adventure helped raise my spirits. Always keeping in mind: “as long as I’m learning something, I’m moving forward.” That’s when I decided kayaking would be the next big endeavour. How could I move to a place world-renowned for its class five rapids and not set foot in the river?

Within two days of telling an acquaintance that I wanted to learn, I had a teacher. Thank you small towns! My first day on the lake was wet and cold, but I loved it. A new Caitlyn came home feeling accomplished and ready to give it everything. After weeks at the lagoon practicing rescues, backward paddling, and turns, the day finally arrived to hit the current. 

My teacher had deemed me ready for the big leagues, I couldn’t be prouder. Even if my skills were lacking in some areas I figured I could handle the kiddie-pool section; the river didn’t agree. During our practice crossing, I was sucked under by a wave, panicked for about ten seconds then went for a swim. You might think this scared me from future attempts but it only empowered me to try harder and to paddle with more passion. Why? Because I felt free in the river, I wasn’t going to give that up over one incident. The water is icy cold, yes, but it simultaneously wakes the body, mind and spirit.

Kayaking in the world’s most beautiful river made me feel like a part of the Futaleufú community, and simultaneously like an independent entity. Instead of asking questions and comparing, I starting living a new life. Instead of worrying about the mistakes I was making, I just started being me. Who knew floating down the current in a plastic box could do such wonders for confidence?

Of course, struggles continue; three months have gone by and I still feel like an outsider at times but that’s part of the experience. Having dreams, ideas, and most importantly my independence has helped me to not only survive but thrive in a small community. 

 About the author:

Caitlyn is a 26-year-old Canadian with a passion for travel, soccer and more recently, kayaking. She is doing a one-year internship with a foundation in Chilean Patagonia where she teaches English at the local school. One of her dreams is to be published in National Geographic and the other is to row on the biggest river in Futaleufú before the end of the year.

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