Gratitude on Horseback in Nicaragua

 

Gratitude on Horseback in Nicaragua

Heat presses in from every direction. Humidity hangs in every inch of the atmosphere, teaming up with the jungle to fight off any chance of a rescuing breeze. Shrubs covered in giant thorns and fire ants drape over the bank, making me cringe every time a leaf or branch scrapes across my legs. My clothes are starting to drip and I can’t tell if the moisture is from the air, the river we are riding through or my own sweat. This is the definition of uncomfortable. I hear a loud splash behind me as the last horse in our caravan dives off the low bank and continues down our lazily flowing river trail. The water kicked up sprinkles my back and I relish in the temporary chill that washes over me.

I look ahead and see Franklin, one of the local guys I work with, kick his horse on through the muddy water as he explains everything we see. I came to Nicaragua to MANAGE this ranch and here I am, the student of one of the ranch hands.   I soak up the environment and smile…I couldn’t be more thankful to be right here! This ride was my first opportunity to see the real countryside of southern Nicaragua and I immediately got lost in its beauty. It was everything the movies tell you a true rainforest is: humid, filthy, and full of animals that bite or sting. What they don’t tell you is that it is also home to the local families; Not bush people, but plantation owners, cattle ranchers, and mechanics.

One second I could see nothing in front of me past the head of my horse, then the branches would clear and out of nowhere I could see a community emerge filled with children and elders, small shacks and a truck sitting in the driveway. How this truck fought its way here, I could not begin to guess. Franklin only chuckled when I showed my astonishment. This was Franklin’s day off, volunteering his Saturday to saddle-up with me to show me HIS village! He had never left this tiny section of the world and had little formal education. Regardless, he was the clear expert here, his knowledge gained from experience not books. He was known for having a heart that enveloped anyone he met and a smile that nearly glowed white, covering most of his face. His smile appeared easily, starting in his eyes, making the most nervous visitor to our ranch instantly feel at home.

Franklin spoke no English and I spoke VERY little Spanish, but we managed to become friends quickly, almost due to the language barrier, not in spite of it! This ride was special. Franklin excitedly me told stories about each house we passed, explaining the names of each aging tree, perfumed flower, and sweet fruit in the jungle. I struggled to understand his language, hiding my lack of comprehension to give his teachings the respect they deserved. Words I had never heard mixed with the juicy flesh of fruit I had never eaten; His lessons were intoxicating in every way imaginable.

My brain struggled to devour the knowledge being dumped into it while my body searched for any possible way to cool itself. I was giddy to be miles-deep in this foreign land with a true local guide. Franklin’s stories fed off my eager ear, quizzing me on names each time we passed a yellow or pink fruit he had fed me a half-mile before. Then, without me realizing, I was led up out of the muddy waters, cresting a ridge. Below us sprawled a concealed valley with a green jungle carpet highlighted by clumps of twinkling starfruit trees and tiny houses with cook fires sending sleepy smoke signals up to meet the blue sky. On the far horizon to the left, Franklin pointed out the green peaks that were Costa Rica and to our right, the Pacific!

I moved to Nicaragua to be in charge, to be the Manager of a ranch. Instead, I found a community of locals that took me in and showed me their own private world, letting me share their land through their eyes and on their terms. Franklin used our inability to use words to let me experience learning about this place like a child again! My education came in gestures and trust. It allowed me to learn from the very beginning stages of understanding, in a way that transcended words. Until then I never realized THAT was the exact reason I moved into the middle of nowhere in Nicaragua. I will always have nothing in my heart but admiration and gratitude for Franklin’s tour. I found one of the most grateful moments in my life on that ridge in Nicaragua in that moment of sharing!

About the Author: Adam Maire is a full-time global traveler and adventure tour guide from Nebraska, searching the world for volunteer experiences and adventure jobs to share with other travelers, promoting the benefits of immersive travel with a purpose.

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