04 Jul Changing Face in Turkey

  Back in 2000 when I first lived in Istanbul, most of my foreign female friends were blonde. Whenever we met for coffee they would regale me with stories of being followed by strange men and touched intimately and inappropriately on the shoulder or the backside....

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05 Dec Whirling Dervishes, Turkey

             A curtain was pulled back and figures emerged from darkness in a shaft of light—a half dozen cloaked musicians with medieval instruments. They arranged themselves on rugs, the light faded out, and the sounds of reeds, drums and unfamiliar string instruments filled the dark...

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