Oct 7, 2016
By Pete Baxter
Democracy, Freedom and Independence in Bratislava, Slovakia.
It is a holiday commemorating the 1945 uprising against Nazi occupation today. Devinska Nova Ves (DNV) is a large village about 16 km north of Bratislava. Its wide main street is lined with old houses, there is an enormous Volkswagen factory and a few tower blocks – nothing special really. But back in 2012 it came to the attention of the world’s press, even Reuters. It was all about a bridge.
DNV is on the Morava River- the border between Slovakia and Austria. In Cold War times this was a heavily militarized zone of barbed-wire fences and constant patrols by border guards. Many people died trying to run through the wire here. Inside the one km exclusion zone you could have been shot on sight. If they had tried swimming they would have had to deal with serious currents on both the Danube and Morava rivers. In 2012 a bridge was completed over the river at DNV to join the formerly impenetrable frontier. The Bratislava Regional Assembly set up a Facebook vote to name this historically significant link between the old communist block and Western Europe. The Regional Governor, Pavol Freso, affirmed that they would probably go with the people’s wishes. That is until the “Chuck Norris Bridge” polled more than 10 times as many votes as the Regional Assembly’s proposal, or indeed any other suggestions. Now Reuters started to take an interest. Chuck Norris was always a source of jokes concerning macho invincibility in Slovakia (Chuck Norris can delete the recycling bin…), but hardly a feasible choice for naming a bridge (no-one walks over Chuck Norris was later mentioned by the Assembly). But you can cross this historic bridge today. The floodplains beneath will be a Site of Special Scientific Interest, teeming with rare flora and fauna.
About two km South of DNV lies the village of Devin, where today there is a festival. If you bus out of Bratislava you may well sit next to a knight, complete with chain mail, sword and helmet on his mobile phone.
Devin Castle, first recorded in 864, lies atop a cliff overlooking the Danube. In the thirteenth century it was the frontier post of the Hungarian Empire. It featured on a coin and a note of the former currency in Cold War times – an important national symbol. Now it lies in ruins (thank Napoleon for that). At the castle are “medieval” tents with costumed people sitting around cooking over fires in iron pots. It has an authentic feel. All the men have long hair and one is undressing to his boxer shorts to put on his chain mail vest, boots, helmet and jacket.
We walk up to the ruins, where my four-year-old daughter, Mollie, is delighted to shout “bottom” down the 55 metre well and enjoy its echo. From up here you can see the Danube curving round to the Morava.
Terraced vineyards sweep down from Dacha’s (small wooden summer villas) on the mountain-top. One huge, elegant residence dominates all of these. I was told that this belongs to the Russian mafia. Down at the river you can throw a stone over into Austria which is why so many tried their luck here. If it wasn’t running through the militarized zone and barbed wire then trying to swim, it was (homemade) hang-gliders from the hilltops. Down by the confluence a serious ceremony is taking place. Over 400 people died between 1945 and 1989 attempting this: nearly one a month for 44 years from one small village on the Austrian border. Each name listed on the sculpture and explained in four languages. It read (verbatim):
“The Iron Curtain used to stand here. It cannot be pulled away. It can only be cracked. Four Hundred people sacrificed their life while fighting for their rights. Human beings, free and unrestricted do not forget that freedom of thinking, acting and dreaming is a value that is not only worth living but also bringing sacrifices.”
Judging by their ages, the attendees here could well have been the brothers or sisters, even parents of those desperado’s who died for freedom and independence. So there you have it: freedom and independence in one rather confusing package. Foul-mouthed four-year-olds, uprisings against Nazi occupation, modern ex-Iron Curtain members of the EEC co-existing with today’s Russian mafia, medieval knights, would-be escapees of communism and Chuck Norris. The Bratislava Regional Assembly, in their infinite wisdom actually rejected the 12,599 votes for the “Chuck Norris Bridge” in favour of the “Freedom Cycling Bridge” (457 votes), which is now its official name. However, thanks to Reuters, it is even today easily findable on Google under its more democratic name. If my daughter were able to understand this, I am absolutely sure that she would say, “But that’s bottom democracy, freedom and independence!”
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About the Author
Pete Baxter
I used to live in Slovakia. And Jordan, France the UK and Libya. I have over 35 countries to my travel CV and don't intend to stop there. I believe in freedom. I believe in independence of thought, freedom of action and the Karma that comes with those responsibilities. I believe in tolerance and non-violence. I learn from travels. I respect people and think that anyone could be an angel. So I respect all strangers.